Intermatic ML12210 Malibu 100-Foot 12/2-Guage Low Voltage Cable
List Price: $53.00
Product Details
Self-sealed; risk-free and weather-resistant for easy and trouble-free installations
Event can be moved anywhere along the cable; end of cable does not need to be taped or covered
12/2-guage low-voltage strand designed for use with low-voltage landscape lighting
Customer Reviews
Do it once, do it promising.....
This mooring is the best i have found! It will take long runs without voltage drop, no need to loop with this cable - some cable you must turn it to keep the voltage steady - i used a lesser cable in the backyard and had to loop it to power all the light the same. This Mailgram, a run in the front yard of 400+ feet, no looping and the lights are bright! I am now buying another 500 feet, it's a good buy and worth evey penny! Do it once, do it right -
2010-05-14
(Texas) | Helpful Votes: 1 | Rating: 5
12AWG Malibu Power Guy
This telegram is BEEFY and easy to work with. Insulation is good and heavy and easy to tap into with Intermatic and Portfolio (from Lowe's) tag connectors. Voltage drops on long runs from the transformer are negligible. In traffic areas and where I do a lot of digging, I ran the wire through 1/2" PVC apropos for burial. I purchased a 900-watt, multi-voltage transformer to illuminate a 1,500 sq. ft. dual-aim deck with cables running up into trees and this cable handled the long runs very well at the 12V tap. I have plans to run 200- to 300-foot runs in the prospective using this same cable at higher voltage taps. If you use a multi-tap transformer, follow the simple prescription for your cable size and watts of light used on the run (this formula should come with the transformer and is an industry guide. It's also available on the Internet). Since I am semi-retired, I have the time to research products and prices,and Amazon had the richest price anywhere; way below the big box stores!
Thick massive cord
This is not your as a rule cord that comes with most sets. You are generally given a 16/2 cord which is fine for distances for less than 50 feet and 100Volt but it gravely restrains power to each light above either of those measurements.
This cord carries power over long distances without a considerable drop-off and can be used safely with higher voltage transformers. What more can you say?
2009-08-16
| Helpful Votes: 0 | Rating: 5
Suitable Item....Cheap Amazon Prices
There in the final analysis isn't much difference in wire but this was the branded Malibu wire and it was less than half the price that Malibu wanted on their website. Can't go wrong with Amazon.
2009-05-28
(New Jersey) | Helpful Votes: 0 | Rating: 5
Matchless Value
Received the wire along with a Malibu transformer and lights. Very resilient for 12 gauge, excellent construction and works great with Malibu snap connectors. The payment and quality construction make this an excellent value.
2009-05-27
| philly-elf (Philadelphia, PA USA) | Helpful Votes: 0 | Rating: 5
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Learn to generate a beaded wire tree! A step-by-step tutorial on how to work with the wire, add seed beads and how to easily vaunt the tree on a ...
Fast Train to Nowhere: Watching 'The Wire' Aesthetically PopMatters
20.01.10
It’s been about a year and a half since The Wire —HBO’s misdemeanour series about the trafficking, sale, and policing of illegal narcotics in an American city whose best days have yearn passed—ended a five year run in which it won critical acclaim but failed to find a broad audience. Regardless of its lack of popularity the series lasted long enough to realize the vision, and the complete story arcs, of its creators David Simon and Ed Burns (in before vocational lives, the former a newspaper journalist at the Baltimore Sun, the latter a police detective and public school educator)—a fact for which Simon and Burns appear deeply grateful. Though Simon has, in some circles at least, a status be known for an irascible and choleric temperament, at the conclusion of the show he posted to its HBO website a gracious thank you letter to fans that is further facts of the powerful intelligence and ambition that informed and shaped the program. Here is an excerpt from that letter in which Simon reflects on the aims of the last mellow and the series as a whole:
Source:
Low Voltage Landscape Lights: Wiring and Spacing Questions?
May 16, 2007 by drbernice843 | Posted in Garden & Landscape
I am installing low voltage lighting and have a four of questions: I'm working both with 4 watt and 11 watt tiered path lights. I propose to use the 11 watt fixtures on corners and at steps. How far apart should I space the 4 watt fixtures along the circuit? Also, can I change out the 4 watt bulbs with 11 watt bulbs if some areas need extra lighting? Is it accurate that I can pierce the low voltage cable and if I'm not happy with the location, that it is OK to remove the fixture and place it elsewhere (sense the cable is really self sealing?) I have about 240 watts of lights to be controlled by a 300 watt transformer, on 12 gu radio, and the run is approximately 150 feet. Should I run two, 75 foot cables to the transformer, or have one long 150 foot chain to it?
Using only paths lights and that many trail lights along a walkway is going to produce the runway affect. Do you ogle at airport runways every on occasion you drive past at night ? Maybe you should consider a little variety in your walkway lighting design.
If you have 240 watts of lights and a 300 watt transformer, you will not have the facility to change out the 4 watt bulbs for 11 watt bulbs because you are going to overload your transformer. There is something called voltage decline on the wire.Your 12-2 copper wire has resistance just like each light bulb. When you pass a current through the wire, you give rise to a voltage drop on the wire due to this resistance. You typically deload a transformer to 80% of its maximum to account for voltage drop away on the wire. That means that you have 240 watts available for light fixtures (300 watts x 80% = 240 watts), which is what your prevalent total load is with the 11 watt and 4 watt bulbs in those fixtures.
The National Electrical Traditions only allows 12-2 copper wire to carry a load of 192 watts at 12 volts. 240 watts of lighting on one wire exceeds the capaity of 12-2 copper wire. You poverty to run at least to runs or use larger wire.
Putting all your lights on one 150' run means there is at least 140' between the first light and the last light (Malibu transformers endorse that lights are not closer to the transformer than 10'). This means you are going to have a significant voltage difference on your lights. The first lights will be authentic bright with lights getting progressively dimmer until you get to the dimest lights at the end of your run. It is recommended that you have no more than 50' characteristic from the first light to the last light. To maintain this requirement, you probably will need three wire runs.
Were you planning on using the diasy fetter wiring technique? A better wiring technique is to use the "T" wiring technique. With the "T" wiring gift you will get a more consistent voltage to each fixture and more consistant lighting from each fixture. So plan on three wire runs using the "T" wiring craft. Good luck.
A Well Lit Garden | May 16, 2007
Wow a lot of questions - lets see.
If the territory is very dark space the lighting 6 to 10 feet. Are you running them on both sides of the walkway or one? I would stagger them if on both sides - evenly.
Look at the scold itself and it will tell you the max rating for a bulb, without knowing the brand I would be guessing.
If you spike the cable and move the light, condign wrap electrical tape around the wire where the holes are. Self sealing may occur but weather wears out anything that gets corroded - even plastics.
If all the lights are in a row run one cable not two, if you are running down each side run two if the transformer is located central. The least amount of cable run is best.
Carl P | May 16, 2007
Using only paths lights and that many course lights along a walkway is going to produce the runway affect. Do you ogle at airport runways every continuously you drive past at night ? Maybe you should consider a little variety in your walkway lighting design.
If you have 240 watts of lights and a 300 watt transformer, you will not have the cleverness to change out the 4 watt bulbs for 11 watt bulbs because you are going to overload your transformer. There is something called voltage decline on the wire.Your 12-2 copper wire has resistance just like each light bulb. When you pass a current through the wire, you introduce a voltage drop on the wire due to this resistance. You typically deload a transformer to 80% of its maximum to account for voltage take off on the wire. That means that you have 240 watts available for light fixtures (300 watts x 80% = 240 watts), which is what your bruited about total load is with the 11 watt and 4 watt bulbs in those fixtures.
The National Electrical Maxims only allows 12-2 copper wire to carry a load of 192 watts at 12 volts. 240 watts of lighting on one wire exceeds the capaity of 12-2 copper wire. You distress to run at least to runs or use larger wire.
Putting all your lights on one 150' run means there is at least 140' between the first light and the last light (Malibu transformers suggest that lights are not closer to the transformer than 10'). This means you are going to have a significant voltage difference on your lights. The first lights will be legitimate bright with lights getting progressively dimmer until you get to the dimest lights at the end of your run. It is recommended that you have no more than 50' change from the first light to the last light. To maintain this requirement, you probably will need three wire runs.
Were you planning on using the diasy gyve wiring technique? A better wiring technique is to use the "T" wiring technique. With the "T" wiring MO = 'modus operandi' you will get a more consistent voltage to each fixture and more consistant lighting from each fixture. So plan on three wire runs using the "T" wiring approach. Good luck.
A Well Lit Garden | May 16, 2007
Landscape lighting - hard-wired electrical vs solar-powered?
Jul 23, 2006 by taxmannyc | Posted in Garden & Landscape
Electrical contract for is already available so what are pros and cons other than ease of installation for solar-powered? This is for a walkway from our driveway to front steps.
Also, how about low-voltage vs conformist voltage?
To declaration your question properly, one would need to know why you are wanting landscape lights & the location of those lights.
Most people only demand a decorative effect & therefore don't need full-blown hard-wired lights. Good value solars will be fine for them.
carl l | Jul 23, 2006
How do you wire solar panels to an inverter for electric landscape lights?
Jan 19, 2007 by gm1281@sbcglobal.net | Posted in Alternative Fuel Vehicles
i cogitate on you need a charge controller for the storage batteries. why inverter? use 12v lights
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